Walking through the backstreets, the veins of Varanasi is like sleepwalking as wonderful images dance in front of your eyes and your senses are lured by the smells and colors swirling around you. One moment you see smiling children running along the cobblestone paths laughing and playing, the next you see wandering wild cows and monkeys perched on ledges staring down in curiosity. Perhaps around the corner there sits a sadhu or holy person with a basket of Cobras who will show you how he can hypnotize them with the movement of his hands... Yesterday we took an evening boat ride on the Ganga (Ganges) lit candles on the water to offer prayers and thanks for our loved ones near and far. As the day fell and the night awakened we floated past fire ceremonies with brilliant colors and many people chanting mantras in unison, like vibrations reaching out to the heavens. After the boat ride we walked a short distance along the ghats, passed the burning ghats...where every evening bodies are cremated atop carefully weighed pyres of wood. The cost of the cremation depends on the type of wood being used, sandalwood being the most expensive. We saw three pyres burning and carefully and respectfully passed by while looking in suspended time as you can see the bodies being consumed by the flame. On one of our first nights walking the ghats we saw a sadhu doing meditation right next to the fires and we watched as the smoke appeared to almost pass through his body. He appeared as if he was in a deep trance and was somehow positioned so the spirits of the recently deceased were connecting to a physical body one last time before they arose towards the sky. This sight and feeling was intense. Well, we plan on leaving Varanasi Sunday morning at 0040 and will take a 12 hour train to New Delhi and then a 15 hour bus ride North into the mountains to the city of Kullu...not far from Kashmir, Pakistan and Tajikistan. From Kullu we will bike ~40 km to Manali, which is another spiritual center in India, as well as a jumping off spot for many adventure/outdoor activities. They have river rafting, rock climbing, canyoning, mountain climbing, paragliding and zorbing (a crazy sounding experience in which you are taken to the top of a very large hill, placed inside a giant padded balloon type contraption, secured :) and then rolled down the hill...I'm guessing this is another one of those activities best done while fasting. The other awesome thing about this place is that there are Hot springs everywhere as well as incredible mountain range and valley views. We've heard good things, so we'll let you know when we arrive. We'll probably stay in Manali for a week and then spend 1-2 weeks biking down and up and over mountain passes as high as 15,000 feet...I'm just excited that our bikes are multi-geared bikes to help us with this endeavor as almost all the bicycles in India are fixed gear single speed, these people have legs of steel. Our destination from Manali through the mountains will take us back towards the foothills, into a place called Rishikesh..where the Beatles once stayed and there are many ashrams ( retreat centers that offer meditation, yoga and philosophical talks on peace, happiness and enlightenment). We'll probably stay here a least 2 weeks and also look for a Vipassana session 3-10 days of silent meditation, where no one speaks only focusing on quieting the mind and bringing awareness into the body. Speaking of, the 2 hour morning yoga has been very cleansing and after each session I'm very glad that I offered that respect to my temple. For the last 4 days I'll be doing 4 hours of yoga a day as well as 1 hour music lessons. So much to do or not do here in Varanasi, so many mysteries to explore and questions to be answered. I hope each of you is finding serenity and direction in your life as well as happiness in this moment. Please be well and know we are thinking of you. Take care, Will and Donavon
P.S. More pictures coming soon :)
