Hello beautiful people out there and here with us in our hearts and minds. Writing you from Northern India in the Spiti Valley about 12,000 feet up and just a few short miles from Tibet. Wow, what an eventful past couple of weeks we've had and I'm here to fill you in on some of the juicy details splashed with a little imaginative imagery to paint a picture since uploading pictures in this small village may not be possible at this time...but we have some great photos to share. We'll going back a couple of weeks, we planned on leaving our last destination of Manali which was great but we were ready to move on. I felt like I was just ending my gastrointestinal misadventures, however unbeknownst to us at the time Donavon was just about to begin his. Well we had been siking ourselves up for the first upcoming pass of Rohtang La which is ~ 12, 700 feet and this is accomplished climbing a series of many switchbacks within a 14 mile span, so pretty step climb to say the least. Starting from 6, 000 feet in Manali we managed to climb 4,000 feet in 3 days and this was a journey filled with emotions and serious challenges. We climbed past valley floors with beautiful pastures and snaking rivers that dropped down from glacial peaks and cycled through small villages where people smiled in excitement at 2 crazy cyclist working their way up the Himalayan mountains. The first 2 days went relativeky well although physically exhausting. On the 2nd night we camped at short way off the road on this mountainside ledge where the view was magnificent, waterfalls dropping hundreds of feet cascaded down green slopes but when you looked up the mountains just kept going higher and the start of the falls seemed to appear from clouds which cloaked the tops of the glacial giants. In the evening the clouds would lower down and roll in around you, making it feel as if you were sleeping in the sky far above the earth. On this day we met a Yak herder who was quite interesting and making very sexual advances at both Donavon and I. I kind of felt sorry for a guy who I guess was just lonely and had only the company of Yaks deep in those Himalayan mountains, but when he asked if Donavon wanted to get real friendly with a Yak and then tried to grab my crotch, the spirit of friendship went cold and I had to make some very clear nonverbal ques that we weren't interested in high mountain yak herder experiences...although disappointed he respected this decision...or maybe it was the large stick that I reached for in menacing way??
Although this place was beautiful and in retrospect we should have stayed here adjusting to the altitude...now around 9,000 feet I thought we should continue to push on. However, just getting over my illness I was pretty much fasting and hadn't eaten much besides an apple and a handful of wild strawberries. Donavon on the other hand was feeling nauseated and had vomited a couple of times. Hind sight is 20/20 and now I feel very foolish, because we kept climbing and actually cycled at least another 1,500 feet, up many more switchbacks and looking high over the valley floor below us. After a few hours we desperately needed to find a place to rest and found a place but it was off the road and about a 200 foot climb onto a small flat ledge. Somehow, we pulled our bikes and luggage up and I set up the tents, but by this time Donavon was looking pale and vomiting much more frequently. In fact every time he tried to drink water he would vomit much more intensely. I was hoping that as we laid there that somehow the rest would relieve the situation but it was too late for Donavon. A couple of hours later we found ourselves leaving all our belongings behind and mounting the cycles and coasting back down the mountains towards Manali and the hospital. I was really worried about Donavon because even though we were coasting downhill he could barely stay on his bike and actually fell over 2 or 3 times. Even though it was around 1 or 2 in the morning we luckily flagged down a passing truck who brought us and our bikes down to the emergency room where Donavon got IV hydration, anti-emetic and pain medicine and finally stopped vomiting. I was so scared and relieved that there was a hospital relatively close by and that we made it safely. After Donavon was resting comfortably, I took a taxi back into the mountains, climbed back up onto the ledge and packed all our gear up to bring back down to the town. Unfortunately on the way down there was a mudslide and we were stuck in that for 4-5 hours...in the blazing sun. When the road finally cleared we (driver and I) waited a good 45 minutes while the opposite row of vehicles passed us by, this was a one lane section, and brought with them clouds of dust. It was so hard to breath and the sun was so intense that I felt like passing out, but we finally started moving and the wind brought some life back into my exhausted body. I finally made it back to the town, got Donavon off the hospital bed and we dragged ourselves and our gear to the nearest hotel. When we arrived they kindly but somewhat reluctantly gave us a room and questioned us if we were strung out on drugs. I tried to be serious but could help but enjoy the small laugh that it brought me. We climbed into bed and woke up 6 days later :)
About a week later I had ventured out a couple of times and actually was able to start cautiously eating and Donavon was looking much more alive and taking water and small pieces of fruit... we had made it out of a dark place and I had really stepped back to see how naive I was and that I was pushing too hard for some ill conceived idea of how strong we were and unsusceptable to the effects of intestinal bugs and high altitude. 2 days later we decided that we would still attempt to do the 250 Spiti Valley journey but this time we would take the bus to the top of the highest point, Kunzam La, and bike mostly downhill from there...what a mind blowing idea, that we didn't have to kill ourselves trying to enjoy this Himalayan experience.
High altitude and night time bus rides...what a combination. We started the bus journey up to Kunzam La at 0400 and ended up arriving at2400 that next morning. We were happy to be on the bus but around 0900 we were stuck in another 5 hour landslide traffic pileup and couped inside the bus for way too long. After someone said that it looked like the bus would be stuck there over night we decided to take our bikes off the bus and ride up towards Rohtang La, towards Gramphu the next village, and just a few hundred feet up. We rode for a couple of hours when we started seeing traffic coming through. Luckily the bus we were riding on stopped, when we waved and picked us up. Carrying us the rest of the way up Rohtang La and the rest of the journey to the top of Kunzam La. At some point before nightfall we stopped in a tiny village for food and we were able to eat some noodles and chips, without problems and began to feel the chill of being up so high. Darkness fell as the bus rambled along a very voracious river and we started to climb up switchback on a narrow dirt rode just feet from the edge. It's strange how when the possibility of death is so close, such as plunging into a river and seeing yourself trapped inside a bus drowning in a cold river that discussions of just these topics become real taboo. Yet somehow I found myself bring up just these topics to Donavon, thinking that if we talked about them somehow that would lessen the fear or that somehow we would be prepared in the event that this possibility occurred. However I was sensing from Donavon's nonverbal looks that he really wanted me to change the subject or just have some time of silence...I was O.K with that. You could definitely feel the chill of the mountain air and the local people started to laugh among themselves as we pulled every article of clothing out of our bags and put them on. Little did they know that we were planning on camping at 13,500 feet, the top of Kunzam La. As the bus made the last few turns up endless switchbacks and on roads that with one wrong slip would have seen us plunging hundreds of feet down mountain cliffs my mind slipped into a dream like state. In one sense it was unbelievable that we were climbing thousands of feet up into the Himalayan mountains in the dark on a bus with no name, but on the other hand we were experiencing a full range of every emotion humanly possible. It was fantastic and this is what living is about, not mindlessly moving through life numb to the possibilities of existence...but on the edge of our seats, wondering whether our last moments would be just around the next mountain curve...sitting there with each other, with love for life each other and each of you sharply in our minds, in that moment!!We arrived at the top, got out of the bus wandered towards a flat spot on the mountainside and set up our tents. We were very mindful of our breath that night and I tried to keep the fear of fluid filling the lungs out of my mind. Somehow, I hoped that if we survived that night all else would be easy and if worse came to worst we could tried biking down to a lower elevation, although we were at least 20 miles from the nearest village. The night was beautiful and the stars were incredible, with the mountains silhouetted by the moon light..it was quite breathtaking...literally. We survived the night and actually spent one more night up on the rooftop of the world before dropping down 1,200 feet to camp along side the Spiti river among boulders of every size and color, falling asleep in the valley of giants underneath the heavens above, oh what an experience. We've camped a couple more days and stayed in some small villages which are set in dramatic landscapes and just having a better time feeling healthier and enjoying food once again. We'll probably be in this area for another 7-10 days before dropping back down into the foothills of the mountains...into a town called Rishikesh, were we'll enter an Ashram for a month. After this we'll get ready to say farewell to India and head into Nepal. But you all will hear from us before then....
Well friends and family I'll bring this long dramatic story to a close as my eyes are literally being sucked into the screen and the rains starting to fall here in Old Kaza, which is wonderful since we haven't seen rain up here for several days. Please keep us in your thoughts and know that we are doing the same for each of you. We love and miss each of you and are carrying your spirits with us. Please be well, love yourselves and each other and do something that makes you smile in this moment. Signing out from Northern India...Your friends, Will and Donavon
P.S. Pictures to come soon!
People usually consider walking on water or on thin air a miracle. But I think a real miracle is neither to walk on water or on thin air, but to walk on Mother Earth. Everyday we are engaged in a miracle that sometimes we don't even recognize; a blue sky, white clouds, green leaves, the black curious eyes of a child...or our own breath. Please take this moment to enjoy the beauty of yourselves and the creations around you :)
Although this place was beautiful and in retrospect we should have stayed here adjusting to the altitude...now around 9,000 feet I thought we should continue to push on. However, just getting over my illness I was pretty much fasting and hadn't eaten much besides an apple and a handful of wild strawberries. Donavon on the other hand was feeling nauseated and had vomited a couple of times. Hind sight is 20/20 and now I feel very foolish, because we kept climbing and actually cycled at least another 1,500 feet, up many more switchbacks and looking high over the valley floor below us. After a few hours we desperately needed to find a place to rest and found a place but it was off the road and about a 200 foot climb onto a small flat ledge. Somehow, we pulled our bikes and luggage up and I set up the tents, but by this time Donavon was looking pale and vomiting much more frequently. In fact every time he tried to drink water he would vomit much more intensely. I was hoping that as we laid there that somehow the rest would relieve the situation but it was too late for Donavon. A couple of hours later we found ourselves leaving all our belongings behind and mounting the cycles and coasting back down the mountains towards Manali and the hospital. I was really worried about Donavon because even though we were coasting downhill he could barely stay on his bike and actually fell over 2 or 3 times. Even though it was around 1 or 2 in the morning we luckily flagged down a passing truck who brought us and our bikes down to the emergency room where Donavon got IV hydration, anti-emetic and pain medicine and finally stopped vomiting. I was so scared and relieved that there was a hospital relatively close by and that we made it safely. After Donavon was resting comfortably, I took a taxi back into the mountains, climbed back up onto the ledge and packed all our gear up to bring back down to the town. Unfortunately on the way down there was a mudslide and we were stuck in that for 4-5 hours...in the blazing sun. When the road finally cleared we (driver and I) waited a good 45 minutes while the opposite row of vehicles passed us by, this was a one lane section, and brought with them clouds of dust. It was so hard to breath and the sun was so intense that I felt like passing out, but we finally started moving and the wind brought some life back into my exhausted body. I finally made it back to the town, got Donavon off the hospital bed and we dragged ourselves and our gear to the nearest hotel. When we arrived they kindly but somewhat reluctantly gave us a room and questioned us if we were strung out on drugs. I tried to be serious but could help but enjoy the small laugh that it brought me. We climbed into bed and woke up 6 days later :)
About a week later I had ventured out a couple of times and actually was able to start cautiously eating and Donavon was looking much more alive and taking water and small pieces of fruit... we had made it out of a dark place and I had really stepped back to see how naive I was and that I was pushing too hard for some ill conceived idea of how strong we were and unsusceptable to the effects of intestinal bugs and high altitude. 2 days later we decided that we would still attempt to do the 250 Spiti Valley journey but this time we would take the bus to the top of the highest point, Kunzam La, and bike mostly downhill from there...what a mind blowing idea, that we didn't have to kill ourselves trying to enjoy this Himalayan experience.
High altitude and night time bus rides...what a combination. We started the bus journey up to Kunzam La at 0400 and ended up arriving at2400 that next morning. We were happy to be on the bus but around 0900 we were stuck in another 5 hour landslide traffic pileup and couped inside the bus for way too long. After someone said that it looked like the bus would be stuck there over night we decided to take our bikes off the bus and ride up towards Rohtang La, towards Gramphu the next village, and just a few hundred feet up. We rode for a couple of hours when we started seeing traffic coming through. Luckily the bus we were riding on stopped, when we waved and picked us up. Carrying us the rest of the way up Rohtang La and the rest of the journey to the top of Kunzam La. At some point before nightfall we stopped in a tiny village for food and we were able to eat some noodles and chips, without problems and began to feel the chill of being up so high. Darkness fell as the bus rambled along a very voracious river and we started to climb up switchback on a narrow dirt rode just feet from the edge. It's strange how when the possibility of death is so close, such as plunging into a river and seeing yourself trapped inside a bus drowning in a cold river that discussions of just these topics become real taboo. Yet somehow I found myself bring up just these topics to Donavon, thinking that if we talked about them somehow that would lessen the fear or that somehow we would be prepared in the event that this possibility occurred. However I was sensing from Donavon's nonverbal looks that he really wanted me to change the subject or just have some time of silence...I was O.K with that. You could definitely feel the chill of the mountain air and the local people started to laugh among themselves as we pulled every article of clothing out of our bags and put them on. Little did they know that we were planning on camping at 13,500 feet, the top of Kunzam La. As the bus made the last few turns up endless switchbacks and on roads that with one wrong slip would have seen us plunging hundreds of feet down mountain cliffs my mind slipped into a dream like state. In one sense it was unbelievable that we were climbing thousands of feet up into the Himalayan mountains in the dark on a bus with no name, but on the other hand we were experiencing a full range of every emotion humanly possible. It was fantastic and this is what living is about, not mindlessly moving through life numb to the possibilities of existence...but on the edge of our seats, wondering whether our last moments would be just around the next mountain curve...sitting there with each other, with love for life each other and each of you sharply in our minds, in that moment!!We arrived at the top, got out of the bus wandered towards a flat spot on the mountainside and set up our tents. We were very mindful of our breath that night and I tried to keep the fear of fluid filling the lungs out of my mind. Somehow, I hoped that if we survived that night all else would be easy and if worse came to worst we could tried biking down to a lower elevation, although we were at least 20 miles from the nearest village. The night was beautiful and the stars were incredible, with the mountains silhouetted by the moon light..it was quite breathtaking...literally. We survived the night and actually spent one more night up on the rooftop of the world before dropping down 1,200 feet to camp along side the Spiti river among boulders of every size and color, falling asleep in the valley of giants underneath the heavens above, oh what an experience. We've camped a couple more days and stayed in some small villages which are set in dramatic landscapes and just having a better time feeling healthier and enjoying food once again. We'll probably be in this area for another 7-10 days before dropping back down into the foothills of the mountains...into a town called Rishikesh, were we'll enter an Ashram for a month. After this we'll get ready to say farewell to India and head into Nepal. But you all will hear from us before then....
Well friends and family I'll bring this long dramatic story to a close as my eyes are literally being sucked into the screen and the rains starting to fall here in Old Kaza, which is wonderful since we haven't seen rain up here for several days. Please keep us in your thoughts and know that we are doing the same for each of you. We love and miss each of you and are carrying your spirits with us. Please be well, love yourselves and each other and do something that makes you smile in this moment. Signing out from Northern India...Your friends, Will and Donavon
P.S. Pictures to come soon!
People usually consider walking on water or on thin air a miracle. But I think a real miracle is neither to walk on water or on thin air, but to walk on Mother Earth. Everyday we are engaged in a miracle that sometimes we don't even recognize; a blue sky, white clouds, green leaves, the black curious eyes of a child...or our own breath. Please take this moment to enjoy the beauty of yourselves and the creations around you :)
